2010 is not going to
be a cruising year for us – Julian has been diagnosed with Prostate Cancer and
will have surgery immediately.
On the bright side we have
recruited a new member of crew.
Meet "Rosie"...
She is still in training and
is inclined to chew up the skipper's socks, but she's beautiful and friendly
and we forgive her.
ELECTRA will stay at Port
Napoleon for another 12 months, under the watchful eye of Ivor and Manami
Greer, who are residents of Port Nap aboard Yacht Diura. It will give us a
wonderful opportunity to do all those little (and not so little) jobs around
the boat before we set off again in 2011. (dv)
Sally has been busy with the
sewing machine making a new lightweight aft awning and boom tent. Julian is
making a new cockpit table (The M40 centre cockpit is an awkward one to
"furnish"), doing some rewiring, and servicing of engine, generator
and diesel cooker, and....ooh, we can find all sorts of bits and pieces which
need "improving”.
Cruising 2011
14th May 2011 - Port Napoleon, France
Electra was launched at 11.00am on Saturday 14th May 2011
14th May 2011 - Port Napoleon, France
Electra was launched at 11.00am on Saturday 14th May 2011
A great moment after two years of being laid up in the yard at Port Napoleon. The launch went without a hitch and she will sit on E pontoon until June, and a fair weather window, when we will set off on our next adventure.
She took one giant leap from the top of the companionway steps into the saloon - I don't think she will do that again - but otherwise spends her time patrolling the deck and snoozing under the bimini in the cockpit or in the saloon.Rosie is just finding her sea-legs, this will be her first experience of a sailing boat (she is an old hand at ferries, after our extensive motorhome-trip through Italy, Sicily, Sardinia and Corsica). She doesn't seem much concerned about the boat, as long as we are there with her.
Monday 30th May - Back to Port Napoleon
Back to the boat after a week with Izzy, Alex and Pippin. A very long drive, but a warm and sunny welcome here, and good to be back.
Wednesday 1st June - well that didn't last long - we have a howling banshee of a Mistral blowing and it is cold - very glad we did not sling out the winter duvet! Doubling and tripling up on the mooring ropes and time to do all the little jobs that the skipper and crew really didn't want to do, but no excuses now.
Two lads on the boat opposite had a little disaster with their shopping bag, which went overboard. By some miracle they hooked it out of the water and started to carefully wash all the tins....which now have no labels. Had to smile.
Friday 3rd June
We have had just about every weather you could imagine - well, not snow and ice, but gales, thunderstorms, gentle rain, blazing sunshine and balmy breezes. It is a challenge every day to be suitably dressed for whatever the elements are going to throw at us. Thank goodness for the bimini and all the "sunshade" (??!!) panels round the sides. We had the central heating on yesterday, hot soup for lunch - might as well be in Scotland.
We have had just about every weather you could imagine - well, not snow and ice, but gales, thunderstorms, gentle rain, blazing sunshine and balmy breezes. It is a challenge every day to be suitably dressed for whatever the elements are going to throw at us. Thank goodness for the bimini and all the "sunshade" (??!!) panels round the sides. We had the central heating on yesterday, hot soup for lunch - might as well be in Scotland.
Jobs are getting done. The outboard motor for the dinghy, which sadly collided heavily with the tarmac (the motor, not the dinghy) and the gear lever snapped off, has been sort-of repaired. It works, but squirts water out of the gear lever slot. Not worth spending any more time and money on it. (I hope I don't come to regret those words....!)
It is impossible not to sit and watch the swallows (unless someone who knows better can tell me they are not swallows?) swooping about the marina, inches above the water, under the bows of the boat, and around the rigging, and nesting under the pontoons. They often perch on the guardrail, entirely unafraid of man or beast (or Rosie), chirruping their long, complicated song which ends, rather engagingly, in a sort of raspberry.
This is the not-so-glamorous side of cruising.Emptying and repacking the lazarette, discovering a gunky mess (what can it be?) in that awkward corner right at the bottom of the locker.....
and its laundry day.
Lots of launching going on in the yard, berths emptying fast as folk start their cruises. We have to hang on (not just for some decent weather) awaiting the rigger (and delivery of contact lenses and various medicaments, signs of our age!)
Off to Arles tomorrow, to restock at the Supermarché.
Thursday 9th June 2011
The rigger is finally here, tightening up the standing rigging - so much so, that neither the fridge door lock or the door to our cabin line up any more!
We are all stocked up and ready to go. The plan is to leave tomorrow morning for a short trip to Iles du Frioul, just off Marseille. We haven't sailed for nearly two years and Rosie is a complete novice, so we hope this will be an easy run for the first outing this season.
We are all stocked up and ready to go. The plan is to leave tomorrow morning for a short trip to Iles du Frioul, just off Marseille. We haven't sailed for nearly two years and Rosie is a complete novice, so we hope this will be an easy run for the first outing this season.
We motored out into the Golfe de Fos with a light breeze behind us. However once beyond Cap Couronne, at lunch time, the wind became a respectable 14 kts, westerly, and we hoisted the main and unfurled half the Genoa. From motoring at 6kts, we were sailing at 6.5 to 7kts. A very good day indeed.
After a certain amount of faffing about adjusting the lines (and after it had dawned on the crew that we were meant to drag the buoy under the water, and that our mooring warp would be too short anyway) we settled down and felt we had earned a celebratory drink looking out over the water to Marseille on a lovely evening.
(note handy ladder still in use as passerelle!)
Plus points - good dog walking, a good shop for provisions and a few restaurants.
Saturday 11th June 2011
The Iles du Frioul were relatively quiet when we arrived on Friday, but by Saturday lunchtime the place was heaving with day-trippers and boats, every berth is full.
The old harbour (with the former Capitainerie, in one of the old isolation hospitals) is a delightful, sheltered anchorage.There is another, smaller island, the Ile d'If between Frioul and Marseille, on which stands the rather grim prison/chateau in which Alexandre Dumas placed his character The Count of Monte Christo Apparently the local guide will cheerfully show you the actual prison cell in which the unfortunate, but entirely fictitious, Edmond Dantes languished.
As ever we have met up with some Moody Owners - Alchemy of London (Gaye and Ralph) has arrived, but leaving before us, so not much time to chew things over. Perhaps we shall meet again on our travels.
Sunday 12th June 2011 - Frioul to La Ciotat
Our 40th wedding anniversary!
We left Frioul mid-morning and hoisted the mainsail outside the harbour, keeping the engine ticking over. It was a mighty uncomfortable ride, corkscrewing and lurching until we got beyond the Ile Tiboulen de Maire, when we were running with the swell and more comfortable.
We put out some of the Genoa and tried to goose-wing, but without great success. When we rounded the Bec d'Aigle rock and turned in towards La Ciotat, we had hoped for calmer conditions, but a strong wind was funneling through the Vieux Port which does not offer much room to manoeuvre at the best of times.
The "Accueil" quay was almost fully occupied by boats moored alongside, instead of Med-moored, making life extremely difficult. We attempted to Med-moor but found the lines tailed to the quay were too short for the boat and would not hold us. We eventually wedged ourselves between two boats alongside the quay (with a gargantuan effort and one of our lines wrapped around an underwater hook on the quayside) and went ashore to organise a berth with the less than helpful Capitainerie staff who had studiously ignored our struggles. The French couple on the adjoining boat tried to ignore us and then decided that the best thing to do was to hold fenders over their expensive solar panel while our anchor hovered within inches of it.
After a short detour to the adjoining Marina (in the hope it could provide us with better accommodation (they couldn't and it was a nightmare to get Electra in and out of the Marina) we returned to the Vieux Port, squeezed Electra into a narrow berth, and heaved a sigh of relief.
Warning to fellow mariners - some of the lines tailed to the Accueil Quay are very short, unsuited to a boat of more than about 8 metres. For this reason, we presume, most boats tend to go alongside, which seriously limits the available space. Be aware of underwater hooks projecting from the Accueil Quay wall. The Capitainerie sanitaires are dire and were not cleaned before or during our stay - 'nuff said, stick to the onboard facilities!
La Ciotat, so far, has little to recommend it. The Vieux Port has a typically French Mediterranean old town on one side, and the aggressively angular and unlovely commercial port on the other.
Having said all that - the little quayside restaurant where we celebrated our anniversary, was cheerful, served very good food and a remarkably good bottle of champagne.
We left La Ciotat, with a great deal less effort than when we arrived, mid morning. There was a light south-westerly breeze so we hoisted and main and genoa, and sailed. After about an hour the wind died and we took in the genoa - we motored the rest of the way to Les Porquerolles in blazing sunshine, but only a very light wind behind us - useless!
The first and second berths we were allocated by the Capitainerie had boats occupying them (reconnaissance on foot is never a waste of time in marinas).
Tomorrow we shall explore - the island looks very promising and attractive.
Wednesday 15th June 2011
Another lovely, sunny day. We spent most of the morning washing off the boat, which I am ashamed to say we had not done since we left Port Napoleon. Very smart we look now.
The afternoon was less restful - SD had to visit the Laverie, so took the camera in order to make the best of it. JRD was just settled down to a little snooze but was almost immediately interrupted by a familiar voice - Alchemy of London (the Moody 425 folk we had met at Frioul) had arrived!
Not just Alchemy, but lots of boats arriving, all needing assistance, so not much snoozing.
I didn't make it up to the Fort St. Agathe, the high point of the island, such a hot day. Don't know anything about St. Agathe but she is pretty big hereabouts, having not only a Fort, but several Rues, Places and Impasses to her name.
Not sure what it is about a lady of a certain age carrying a Tesco bag and two baguettes, but I was asked the way to this place and that at least four times as I wandered about. Fortunately I had glanced at a map for twenty seconds or so before I wandered, and was able to help out.
A pleasant sundowner with Ralph and Gaye (Moody 425 - Alchemy of London) before they set off for Ajaccio tomorrow, and watched the lunar eclipse.
Our plan is to leave tomorrow morning, for Calvi on Corsica.
Thursday 16th June 2011 - Porquerolles to Calvi, Corsica
We left mid-morning and motor-sailed on the main until the wind speed was up to about 12kts, then unfurled the huge Genoa and switched off the engine. The wind strength increased all day, and although it dropped for an hour or two during he night, it never dropped below 12kts. The swell increased uncomfortably during the night and we put in a reef which seemed to help a little.
ELECTRA did us proud, we were delighted that we averaged over 6kts SOG until we reached the Pointe de la Revelatta outside Calvi at 5 am on Friday morning - less than 19 hours was a great result.
We had thought we would be doing the crossing in convoy, but we only saw two other yachts throughout the journey (and a few ferries and commercial ships in the distance). The first yacht going our way was a very handsome 70' called Mr.Phips who was doing a good 9.5 kts under sail, very decently didn't take our wind on overtaking and left us standing. The second yacht was going the opposite way, and a bit of a mystery with no visible skipper (we presume it was on autopilot) no ID on the AIS and on a collision course with us. We had to take avoiding action several times.
The Autohelm didn't respond well to the wind/swell and JRD was steering for the last four hours of the journey, but I think pleased and satisfied to do so. By then the catering was down to Digestive biscuits and peppermints - not difficult for the helmsman to cope with while steering in a tricky sea. With the invaluable help of regular doses of Stugeron, I was able to cope with plotting our course on the chart, making tea, microwaving Spag Bol, doling out digestives and peppermints - all that important stuff. While doing the chart work, I can see that our GPS is giving us a position which is always about 2 minutes south of our actual position, although very mysteriously the chart-plotter screen indicates our track correctly. (Later in the cruise we asked Raymarine to explain this anomaly, but they are at a loss.)
Late in the evening we spotted a brilliant orange light on the horizon which appeared to be getting larger at an alarming rate - something big was travelling fast towards us - nothing on the AIS, what could it be - a nuclear sub? Only when it left the horizon and gracefully rose into the sky did we realise it was the moon, as bright as a polished brass button, a perfect golden disc in the sky. We later heard from friends that they too had experienced a moon like this, on the same leg of the journey, and had taken avoiding action, several times, until the moon rose above the horizon and the penny dropped!
Because we had sailed for so long without the motor running, and were using navigation lights, AIS, chart-plotter, kettle, fridges etc., the battery was beginning to struggle, so we cranked up the Whispergen en route, which worked a treat - first time we had done this under sail and it really has earned its keep.
Another landmark - Rosie has worked out what the astroturf in the anchor well is for......hurrah!
Mid way, we were joined by a couple of dolphins (porpoises ?) joyfully playing under the bow wave, which lifted our spirits on a very long journey. The night was cold compared to the high daytime temperatures and our spirits needed lifting again when, in the early hours of the morning, we were very pleased and relieved to spot the light flashing out from Calvi harbour. Also pretty pleased that we would be going into Calvi before any of the huge ferries and tourist boats complicated things. We found a berth on the quay, nobody about to help at 5am, so a bit of a struggle, and I managed to tear my lifejacket while lowering myself from the anchor on to the quay, gripping a rope in my teeth - well almost - as there were only maddeningly inaccessible, unhookable mooring rings on the harbour wall.
Friday 17th June 2011
There was significant swell in the harbour and initially being rather too close to the quay we gave it a clonk with the stem, which fortunately has a sturdy metal strap down it, so no structural damage, but quite a big dent in the stainless steel strap.
We feel very brazen flying our blue Ensign with the Union Jack right under the walls of the Citadel. We have been sitting in the cockpit looking at the surrounding hills (mountains I suppose, as some of them still have traces of snow on them!) wondering from which vantage point Nelson gave the Citadel such a pounding in 1794.
When we have snoozed off the effects of our night sail, we will explore.
Saturday 18th June 2011
The morning was spent washing down the boat and taking Rosie for her morning swim off a nearby beach. I was obliged to spend the afternoon in the local Super U (there is an upside - it was nicely air-conditioned) while JRD and Rosie explored the Citadel and town.
Sunday 19th June 2011
A clear bright day, but a ferocious, cold wind blowing - so we are sitting here having a heated discussion as to whether this is a libeccio or the tail end of a mistral. The boat is rocking and rolling, so a coffee break in town looks attractive, and perhaps try to find an internet cafe where I can upload the Diary page - the Calvi Marina WiFi network (which is free) doesn't seem to stretch to this and I may have to abandon photographs on the Diary.
We walked up to the Citadel (in search of the cannon ball apparently still lodged in the walls - not found) but did find a rather handsome memorial to Christopher Columbus, who was apparently born in the Citadel 1436 (although the Genoese claim he was born in Genoa in 1451) and lived to the ripe old age of 70, quite a surprise given his adventurous lifestyle. The Citadel still houses a small, rather forbidding looking Foreign Legion barracks. The rest of the "town" has a few restaurants and bars, but otherwise it is entirely "unheritaged" in any way, which is quite refreshing.
The Coffee Shop internet was a dead loss too, but have found a little Computer shop offering WiFi, just behind the railway station so very close to the harbour. €1.50 for 15 minutes and "zap" everything went through in a flash. Brilliant.
As the wind is easing, Plan A is to move out of the harbour tomorrow (Monday), to an anchorage in the bay for a night, and then move on to Girolata or Cargese.
Tuesday 21st June 2011 - Calvi to Girolata
Well, so much for the wind easing! We managed to anchor, but there was a bumpy swell all day and all night which was pretty uncomfortable - not much sleep for any of us, including Rosie who was very unsettled.
Mid morning, on a lovely sunny day, we hauled up the anchor, which had held well in the sand, and set off for Girolata. What wind there was, was right on the nose and there was quite a swell. We motored round the Pointe de la Revelatta (the friendly white light which had cheered us on when we arrived in Calvi) as Nelson did in 1794 and scanned the coast for the narrow inlet to an anchorage which he had used to land his cannon, which were dragged up into the hills overlooking Calvi and used to such great effect. I am not sure we identified it - but anyone who sails into that coastline is a hero.
The sea didn't begin to flatten out until we approached the Ile de Gargalu, when we experienced an unexpected current against us of about 0.75kts, which soon disappeared as we rounded the Punta Muchillina, then turning into the very deep, steep sided and very beautiful Golfe de Girolata. This whole area is now a UNESCO heritage site, and one can see why.
We called up the Capitainerie who were superb and sent out a RIB to guide us into the fore and aft moorings. Brilliant.
The first boat to come alongside us was a Moody 39, about the same vintage as ELECTRA.
There is little in this village, which is almost entirely serviced from the sea. There is no road, so no hordes of tripper coaches - but several (well-behaved) tripper boats throughout the day.
A few houses, restaurants and a shop along the beachfront, a well-hidden campsite, a dilapidated Genoese fort overlooking the moorings. A cow and calf wandering about the place, all very quiet, lovely.
We broke out the new cockpit table JRD made last year, a great success. Supper in the cockpit on a lovely warm evening, moored up at Girolata, the red rocks of the surrounding hills glowing in the evening sun. This feels really good.
Wednesday 22nd June 2011 - Girolata
A short walk to get up an appetite (too hot to walk far) and then lunch at Le Bel Ombra - which was fantastic. Fortunately JRD had booked, as it was packed out, and the food was exceptionally good. It took all afternoon to recover!
We move on to Ajaccio tomorrow.
Well, so much for the wind easing! We managed to anchor, but there was a bumpy swell all day and all night which was pretty uncomfortable - not much sleep for any of us, including Rosie who was very unsettled.
Mid morning, on a lovely sunny day, we hauled up the anchor, which had held well in the sand, and set off for Girolata. What wind there was, was right on the nose and there was quite a swell. We motored round the Pointe de la Revelatta (the friendly white light which had cheered us on when we arrived in Calvi) as Nelson did in 1794 and scanned the coast for the narrow inlet to an anchorage which he had used to land his cannon, which were dragged up into the hills overlooking Calvi and used to such great effect. I am not sure we identified it - but anyone who sails into that coastline is a hero.
We called up the Capitainerie who were superb and sent out a RIB to guide us into the fore and aft moorings. Brilliant.
A few houses, restaurants and a shop along the beachfront, a well-hidden campsite, a dilapidated Genoese fort overlooking the moorings. A cow and calf wandering about the place, all very quiet, lovely.
A short walk to get up an appetite (too hot to walk far) and then lunch at Le Bel Ombra - which was fantastic. Fortunately JRD had booked, as it was packed out, and the food was exceptionally good. It took all afternoon to recover!
We move on to Ajaccio tomorrow.
Thursday 23rd June 2011 - Girolata to Ajaccio
We made an early start on a lovely sunny morning, flat calm sea - strong winds were forecast for later in the day and we wanted to get into Ajaccio, or at least through the Iles Sanguinaires (the "blood-thirsty islands"!) with little or no wind. After we had passed the Iles Sanguinaires the wind built up to 14 or 15 kts, but not worth putting up the sails for the remaining short distance into Ajaccio.
We can only occupy this berth for one night, apparently, although given the general chaos in the Capitainerie, and the fact that they rarely venture out of their air-conditioned office to check, they really have no idea which berths are available and which are not. We will have to move berths, or ports, tomorrow.
Friday 24th June 2011
Still in Port Tino Rossi, chaos still reigns in the Capitainerie, but we did find another berth and will stay in Ajaccio until Sunday. This is going to be a laundrette and general stocking up day or two. We will try to seek out the "Bonaparte House" and museum, although I understand the old boy was not overly attached to Ajaccio or Corsica.
The marina sanitaires are pretty good, but the showers are a challenge - no lights. If you are wet shaving, ladies, the cubicle could end up like the shower scene from Psycho.
Went exploring in the town after lunch - busy place Ajaccio. Found a statue of the great man and the Bonaparte family home, but didn't queue up for the tour.
We did discover - blow me down - that Tino Rossi really was a 1930's matinée idol!
Saturday 25th June 2011 - Jemima's birthday!
Skype call to Jemima - 6 years old today. Gosh, we do miss the grandchildren (and our children and their significant-others too, of course) while we are away.
A little wander to the beach (we have found the beach at last!) after lunch and inspected the Citadel, which is still a military base and has lots of barbed wire about the perimeter and stern notices telling everyone that it is a Campe Militaire and Defense de Penetrer (or words to that effect), but the only signs of life were two donkeys grazing in the "moat". So relaxez-vous France, all is well, Mirabelle and Ermintrude have got it covered....
Sunday 26th June 2011 - Ajaccio to Porto Pollo
After fuelling up (not without incident, a motorboat under the supervision, if that is the right word, of an elderly Frenchman reversed into us at some speed) we set off for our next port of call - Porto Pollo, which is only a few miles from Ajaccio.
It was a short, uneventful trip, motoring with the main sail up which gave us an extra half a knot or so in light winds. As we approached Porto Pollo the sea breeze strengthened.
We picked up a buoy using the "Moor Fast" gadget, (one of my many mooring gadgets) for the first time, and would highly recommend this bit of kit.
Porto Pollo is a great improvement on Ajaccio. A small marina, a few pontoons but mostly buoys (Mouillage Organisé) and an anchorage, an attractive village, with a couple of small hotels, a few shops and restaurants, which extends along behind a very decent beach. All very low key and low rise.
A good spot to be in a westerly or north westerly. We had a bit of swell but nothing unpleasant. Rosie became very experienced at dinghy-trips, much more confident, and very much enjoyed her daily swims.
Monday 27th June 2011 - JRD's birthday!
Lunch at the Hotel du Golfe, a snooze and a walk - what more could one want!
For reasons which escape me, we took very few photographs of Porto Pollo, so you will just have to take our word for it - it is an excellent place, well worth a visit.
Tuesday 28th June 2011 - Porto Pollo to Bonifacio
We made an early start, calculating a a five or six hour trip to Bonifacio, and put up the main in anticipation of a decent sea breeze during the day. As the wind built up we tried the Genoa twice, unsuccessfully as the wind was on our tail but insufficient to goose-wing without a pole. we reduced revs to tickover and sailed on the main alone. Approaching Bonifacio, around Cap de Feno, the wind strengthened and the sea became rather more than "un peu agitée" and lowering the main in these very choppy conditions made the crew extremely agitée, I can tell you! We motored into the harbour, which is a blind entrance, with every finger crossed that the Corsica-Sardinia Ferry was not about to come steaming out at full speed, as they do.
The Capitainerie studiously ignored our calls on the VHF, but we heard them directing another boat (behind us!) to pontoons J/K/L, so we headed that way. To say that Bonifacio was tight for space, would be a serious understatement, sardines have it easy.
We spotted some empty spaces and squeezed between the pontoons - but as we turned in, we could see why the space was "empty", there was a motorboat parked up right across the three berths! Undaunted JRD pressed on and nosed ELECTRA's bow in as close as he could, kind folk helped us tie to rings (not a horn cleat or bollard in sight), and we leapt off the anchor on to the pontoon. Having shifted the motorboat, the Italian owners returned from their lunch - we explained that we had moved their pride-and-joy to which they beamed with delight and said "no problem" - quite!
Bonifacio has a very Italian feel to it, quite different to Calvi and Ajaccio. The restaurants along the quay are very jolly, with live music in the evening and lots of comings and goings.
Sadly for Rosie, not much good dog walking or swimming hereabouts. The Marina do have WiFi, but it is not working - when will it be repaired? "Ah" (accompanied by Gallic shrug and a winning smile...) but the Tourist Office WiFi seems to be working (hurrah).
The Capitainerie create more problems than they solve, which seems to be a common feature in Corsican town marinas. Nothing much happens until about 3 o'clock, when they suddenly rush about the marina in their little boats, like demented hornets, trying to identify empty berths and shoehorning impossibly large boats into impossibly small berths accompanied by lots of shouting and revving of engines.
Wednesday 29th June 2011
The diesel cooker oven is playing up a bit, so JRD felt it was a good moment to dismantle it and investigate. Now bear in mind that this cooker weighs more than 50kgs, is an awkward object with no obvious hand-holds, and the temperature today is around 27°C. Some hours later, having found no obvious fault, but with several lumps of flesh missing from his hands, dripping with sweat, cursing like a trooper and quite a lot of the woodwork around the cooker bearing the scars of his endeavours, we managed to get the cooker back into its slot (with an almighty crash). It seems to be working....
There is a serious libeccio (or a mistral, but not going to have that discussion again) developing, the wind is funneling right through the harbour, and even more boats arriving which brings the usual entertainment of boats crashing around the marina, impaled on anchors, props fouled by lines, shouting and cursing in a multitude of different languages, and everyone with defensive boathooks and fenders at the ready - except the Italians, who are still at lunch.
Thursday 30th June 2011
Strong winds today, and more forecast for tomorrow, so we have decided to stay in Bonifacio until Saturday at least. The cooler weather offers an opportunity to explore the extensive Citadel which looms over the harbour, and hangs perilously over the sea.
It is a long climb up and a steep route down! The Citadel is rather a gloomy place, much in need of TLC and investment. Once an important military base, it now feels abandoned and sad. There are the usual collection of shops and restaurants, the inevitable "Napoleon slept here" plaque on a house, many once-grand buildings crumbling and empty, a City without a purpose.
The rest of the fleet were anchored in the main harbour and suffered a terrible fate at the hands of the notorious tribe of Laestrygonians - who destroyed their ships, tore them limb from limb and ate their flesh - only Odysseus and his crew escaped.
I don't spend much time in cemeteries as a rule, but the one inside the Citadel, advertised as the "second most beautiful cemetery in the Mediterranean" (no idea which is No.1, but I rate this one) has a peace and dignity about it, despite its wild and rugged setting on the cliff, and looking slightly like an explosion of beach huts on the Prom (even more so because some of them have rather sensible PVC doors, double glazed, but no letterbox!)
Such a contrast to the rest of the City.
Friday 1st July 2011
Just thought you would like to know that this is now, officially, High Season. How do we know that - well there are now dozens of red T-shirted young men about the place, helping yachts to moor up (where were they when we needed them?) and zooming about in RIBS all day. We also know because tonight will cost us 10€ more than last night.
The wind has eased and the forecast for tomorrow is for manageable winds, we are off across the Bonifacio Straits to Sardinia tomorrow morning - early.
Phew! What a trip!
We made an early start, leaving Bonifacio before 0730 (to miss the first incoming ferry - just) putting a precautionary reef in the main as we left the harbour, to suit the forecast conditions. The sea was turbulent (agitée, on the French scale of things) as it always seems to be just off Bonifacio, but with the promise from WindFinder.com of no more than 14-16kts of wind we felt confident enough to unfurl half the Genoa and wait for the sea to ease. It didn't and became a lot more than agitée, and the wind increased, gusting to 35kts. Those pesky little fellas at WindFinder had told a lot of porkies. We recorded over 9 kts SOG at one point, we were regularly exceeding 8 kts and for the whole trip we averaged over 7 kts. The Log wheel must have had steam coming out of it.
It seemed like forever, but in fact it was just three hours later when we finally and gratefully moored up to a buoy in Palau harbour (the Marina is completely full), just astern of Thursday's Child (Moody 38) and a desperately needed mug of coffee and Pain au Chocolate apiece.The harbour suffers from a lot of swell, but nothing, absolutely nothing, was going to keep us awake that afternoon!
Chris and Carrie Stadward (Thursday's Child) kindly invited us to drinks in the evening, and sympathised with our experience - having recently crossed from Bonifacio and been moored up on a buoy in Palau because of the difficult wind and sea conditions, for nearly a week.
It is impossible to ignore the multitude of weather-sculpted rocks around the bay, fascinating, beautiful shapes (where was my camera?), all very Henry Moore.
Sunday 3rd July - La Maddalena by ferry
We carefully checked the website to ensure that the Diocesan Museum in the church of Mary Magdalene would be open, wherein lie the candlesticks and crucifix presented to the Church by Horatio Nelson in 1804, in recognition and gratitude for the islanders' help in supplying and supporting the British Navy. When we got there, the museum was shut - ah, the priest said, they have changed the days + Italian version of Gallic shrug.
It would definitely be open on Monday - no problem.
We consoled ourselves with lunch and a quick wander about the harbour, and a resolve that JRD would return on Monday to see the silverware.
I had not realised that Garibaldi (now there was someone who could not resist a fight - anywhere, anytime) ended his days on Caprera (the island next to, and now joined to La Maddalena by a causeway). One gets the feeling that he was put out to grass at a safe distance from the action in Rome. Anyway, lots of Garibaldibilia and a smart memorial near the harbour (never much liked the squashed fly biscuits though).
Julian returned to La Maddalena - the Museum was closed, despite the sign outside declaring its openness. A big disappointment.
Another blow - we managed to snap the shear pin on the outboard motor prop. One of the local chandlers helpfully cut a bolt as a temporary replacement, but shear pins seem to be hard to come by.
We were also cheered up by the lady at the Palau Capitainerie who kindly volunteered to investigate when the Museum would really be open - and she was as good as her word. She tracked down the caretaker and arrange for JRD to have a visit on Tuesday afternoon.
A very jolly evening with the Stadwards (Thursday's Child) before they set off south, for their eventual destination in Greece.
Tuesday 5th July 2011
The lady caretaker was clearly ruffled, she only reckoned to open the museum when it suited her (there used to be three caretakers, now there was only one and Church did not pay her enough she helpfully explained). Rather curiously JRD was not permitted to photograph the actual objects, only a picture of them. No explanation was forthcoming.
The weather is increasingly windy, the swell in the harbour is pretty uncomfortable, occasionally very rough and one has to catch objects as they hurl themselves across the cabin. It becomes really very tedious and tiring after several days, but we will have to stay put in Palau until the weather eases.
Just a note to say that while the WiFi in Palau is well organised with aerials everywhere - on a swinging mooring (and Palau takes swinging mooring to a whole new level) the signal comes and goes - a complete nightmare for uploading webpages! Have patience readers - we will get stuff online as best we can!
Thursday 7th July 2011 - Palau (Sardinia) to Porto Vecchio (Corsica)
A good forecast, calm sea and light winds - with one bound we were free!
We left Palau before eight o'clock, still with two reefs in the Main and the new Working Jib hanked on - just in case!
Between the mainland and the island was an interesting interface between the 17th and 21st Century, as a (replica) square rigger and the ferry passed each other in the Straits. We wondered, again, how the scene would have looked during the Mediterranean Campaign 1803-1805 with Nelson's fleet anchored there, waiting for the signal that Admiral Villeneuve and the French and Spanish fleets had left their base in Toulon. On 18th October 1804 (a year before the decisive battle at Trafalgar) on the rumour that the French Fleet had sailed, HMS Victory and the fleet weighed anchor on the very day the crucifix and candlesticks were presented to the people of the Maddalenas. The rumour was unfounded and the fleet returned.
Finally, on 19th January 1805 while a gale raged, the frigates HMS Seahorse and HMS Active arrived in the Straits, under full sail, signal guns blazing to draw attention to their signal flags - "Enemy at Sea" - the French fleet had left Toulon!
With a smidge less drama - as we came out of the Maddalenas we had about half a knot of current against us, hardly a ripple on the sea and only about 2kts of northerly wind. Quite a contrast to our arrival!
Once we had cleared the Maddalena Islands, we turned north, the negative effect of the current disappeared and we made about 6kts. It is noticeable that the currents through the Straits are quite strong and can make a difference of about a knot.
Just off the Ile Cavallo, we spotted a very handsome square rigger with full sail up, but slightly eerily it appeared out of the haze and seemed to hover above the water, not going anywhere.
The wind gradually rounded to the east and increased a little during the journey. As we neared Porto Vecchio we hoisted the reefed Main but it had minimal effect on our progress.
Rosie spent the entire journey asleep on the folded sprayhood.
We entered the very attractive Golfe de Porto Vecchio, which would seem a perfect area for dinghy sailing and with lots of beaches and coves. The Capitainerie staff came out to meet us in a RIB, to ask us to wait outside the harbour while a super-duper-yacht attempted to corkscrew itself out of the small marina and zigzag entrance, there can only have been inches to spare.
JRD manoeuvred us into a pretty tight berth (thank goodness for the bow-thruster). Capitainerie staff very helpful on the pontoons (sadly, they keep the not-so-helpful ones in the office we were to discover later).
A quick walk for Rosie, a late lunch and snooze completed a very pleasant day.
Porto Vecchio is a town of two parts (to misquote somebody or other) with the historic walled town (Citadelle) up on the hill overlooking the fast-developing new town and Marina below. We will explore tomorrow - or the next day!
Saturday 9th July 2011
Explored the Genoese Citadelle this morning. It is very compact and the exuberant explosion of shops, ice cream parlours and restaurants splurging on to the pavements, make it hard to spot the "historic" bits. Perhaps that is how it should be, a similar site in the UK would be in a straitjacket of heritage mothballs.
We plan to move on tomorrow, going north up the coast of Corsica to Solenzara and Taverna, then on to Elba before 14th July, Bastille Day.
Sunday 10th July 2011 - Porto Vecchio to Solenzara
A cloudy, hazy, humid morning, just a hint of some wind. We hoisted the Main (shook out one of the reefs) and the Working Jib but with the very light easterly wind we were not going to be able to sail, so we dropped the Working Jib and motor-sailed on the Main into Solenzara. It was only 22 miles or so, but it seemed longer, rather a slow journey with not much happening.
Solenzara was a refreshing surprise - the Capitainerie are right on the ball, guided us into a berth, and all the staff (including those in the office) seemed pleased to see us, were friendly and chatty. The marina is by no means full, neither it is expensive for High Season, the sanitaires are modern and clean (albeit at an extra charge of €2 for a shower), free WiFi which works, so top marks all round.
Best of all - there is a little beach right next to the marina, just beyond the breakwater, with sparkly clean water. We all went swimming this afternoon - lovely!
I had a go at erecting the new awning for the front of the boat (from the bimini to mast) - but it is rather awkward and I think the design can be improved a lot - a job for the winter.
Solenzara is a purpose-built marina and town (still developing) created to bring prosperity to this part of the east coast of Corsica - much like Port Leucate on the south coast of France. They have done a good job, it feels pleasant and we feel very comfortable here. We plan to stay a couple of days then move on to Taverna, further north.
Solenzara was a great success - swimming twice a day, easy to get to shops without hauling a trolley or using bikes, quiet marina with no swell, a sparky, busy village, not a beauty but a real sense of energy about the place. One to return to I think.
Tuesday 12th July 2011 - Solenzara to Port de Taverna (Campoloro)
Left Solenzara just after 0900 and hoped for a little friendly wind to help us on our way - it didn't happen. We hoisted the Main but it made no difference and we motor-sailed, with about half a knot of current against us, for about 36 fairly tedious, and very hot, miles, arriving at Taverna/Campoloro around 3pm.
We called the Marina on the VHF, but no response, so made our way into the marina and on to the Accueil Pontoon (which said RECEPTION in large letters) with some difficulty as there was a large, wooden boat moored across the end of it and a sawbench and toolbox carefully positioned next to the only bollard. Just as we managed to lasso the damned thing, a lad appeared and indicated we should shove off. We explained that we wanted to stay a night, which took him by surprise. Apparently he was from the Capitainerie - you wouldn't have guessed it. He indicated a berth, and off we went to moor up and have a cup of tea.
Eventually some charter boats moored up next to us, unfortunately the mooring rings on the quay were rather haphazard and we found ourselves with squashed fenders holding up the entire row of boats. The Capitainerie staff were not interested and we tried, unsuccessfully (we don't speak Russian, Czech or German) to try to get the boats to shift along, but in the end we had to release our lines and fall back on to the adjoining boat (squashed fenders both sides ?).
Rarely do we dislike a place so much that we don't even bother take a photograph of it. This was a first.
Taverna/Campoloro has no redeeming features, except perhaps that it lies conveniently between Solenzara and Bastia, but that's it really. Apparently they have an award-winning beach next to the Marina, but no sign or access path from the Marina to the beach. They have 3 deserted restaurants, one shop, a Mairie (pourquoi?), a truly disgusting overflowing poubelle compound, a diving centre (no activity) and a holiday village next door (also deserted except for two people staring disconsolately into the swimming pool which may, or may not, have had water in it).
We resolved to escape at the first opportunity.
Wednesday 13th July 2011 - Taverna/Campoloro to Bastia
0845 and we were off, on a cloudy, hazy, humid day. We didn't attempt to raise any sail as the wind was only about 7kts and right behind us. I see from the Log that the only high point was when we passed the Oil Terminal at Lucciano - that's how exciting the journey was.
When we approached Bastia, we were on Ferry-dodging watch and we raced into the entrance of Port Toga just ahead of another yacht (which turned out to be owned by some delightful Swiss people) and moored up at the fuel pontoon, all very smooth and satisfactory with a lovely friendly greeting from a charming elderly gentleman in a floppy hat, and his English companion, who turned out to be the Capitainerie reception committee - but, quel dommage, the fuel pontoon had just closed for déjeuner. When would they reopen? Ah (Gallic shrug) peut-être 2.30 but (another Gallic shrug) the lunch it is very important you know....
There was nothing to be done but have a lazy lunch, get to know the Swiss couple moored up next to us, and wait for fuel - which we did, in searing heat. Once refuelled (2.45pm if you are interested) we were guided to an alongside berth, which makes a pleasant change.
We had decided not to try the Vieux Port in Bastia, what with the ferries coming and going, it might be a bit rock 'n roll so went "next door" to Port Toga which is not exactly picturesque, but feels very pleasant, has the usual little local shops and restaurants around the perimeter of the Marina plus a huge Casino Hypermarket just over the road. No beach to speak of - a few rocks and a length of pebbly shore is what passes for the plage, but the sea is too rough for Rosie's sort of bathing (and mine for that matter).
This area of Bastia has been utterly destroyed with the construction of gigantic blocks of flats, tasteless and styleless. Here and there you can just glimpse a surviving lovely 19th century villa, but too few and most in need of TLC.
We intend to batten down and sit out Bastille Day and then move on to Elba when the weather is in our favour.
Thursday 14th July 2011 - Bastille Day
Clearly the efforts of those excitable Revolutionaries in Paris have passed unnoticed on Corsica - although I am sure they are all very grateful indeed for the public holiday which neatly falls on a Thursday this year, thus necessitating a "pont" day on Friday, et voila!, a four-day weekend. This rather suits us though, as the harbour wall/digue is being repaired after storm damage, and the noise of the pile driver and crane just behind Electra has, happily, ceased.
Friday 15th July 2011
Fireworks display last night - the Revolutionaries' efforts did not pass unnoticed after all.
Spent some time exploring the Vieux Port and town, which was once the capital city of Corsica before Napoleon decided that Ajaccio suited him better.
There is, as you would expect, a large statue of N.Bonaparte, in classical Greco-Roman style, occupying one end of something which resembles Horseguard Parade but which, for the moment, was accommodating a rather sparse and tacky market and funfair of sorts, and cafés from one end to the other.
More recently Corsica has been divided into Haute and Sud, and Bastia is the capital of Haute Corse, I hope it regains some of its dignity.
It is important in Bastia to look up (with the risk of stepping in something nasty on the pavement) in order not to miss the very handsome 19th century buildings, with their classic proportions and lines, in delicious pale shades of pink, ochre and terra cotta.
Around their ankles yap the tasteless and aggressive modern cafés, restaurants and shop-fronts - what a travesty.
The buildings surrounding the Vieux Port are a layer cake, the ground level of cafés, bars and restaurants, all steel, canvas, bright lights, potplants and prosperity; up a level to townhouse apartments with wrought iron balconies and smart shutters; up again to a dull, crumbling layer in need of a coat of paint, laundry hanging out of windows; and then up to the garrets with peeling and fragmented stucco, shutters hanging off and roofs in danger of collapse.
The attractive and substantial stone quays tell of a once-busy fishing industry, now all but gone.
Saturday 16th July - Bastia (Corsica) to Portoferraio, Elba
The forecast was for light winds, 12-15 kts from the W/NW. In the event, the wind was a fairish 10-15kts south-easterly almost all the way to Elba. We hoisted the (reefed) Main and Working Jib - a modest array of sail as we were concerned that the wind would build during the day. However, it didn't exceed 15kts going round S/SE and we were able to switch off the motor and sail for a distance, which was a great pleasure (particularly pleased to be using our nice, new, blue Working Jib to good effect).
When we rounded the Punto Polveraia (Elba) the wind followed us round, going westerly, and faded. We dropped the Jib and motored on with the Main up. As we turned into Portoferraio we noticed quite a "chop" in the sea, possibly caused by all the ferries and general activity! We made our way across the harbour to Esaom Cesa (try saying that on the VHF!) and with a bit of persuasion managed to get a berth on their quay - they tell us the marina is completely full .... not from where we are sitting, but heigh ho! The price of the marinas on Elba in high season is a bit eye-watering, so we are looking forward to anchoring in the bay when we have had a day's R&R.
This is not a photogenic marina (this is the best "view" I could find), surrounded by an industrial wasteland, and for the price you would expect bells and whistles which you definitely do not get, but the view across the bay to the mountains is very pleasant. No WiFi - grrr.
We cannot help but notice that the Ormeggiatori (guys who organise boat parking for want of a better translation, although they do have a reputation in some ports of being a sort of mini-mafia) do rush about a bit when an expensive yacht or gin-palace arrives. They set off at a great rate on scooters to greet the lucky and, one presumes rather prosperous, owner of said vessel, thrusting mooring warps hither and thither, all smiles and energy. I am sure the tips at the end of the season must be good.....
I asked Julian what was good or memorable about our stay in this marina - "close to the toilets" came the reply. So there you have it.
Sunday 17th July 2011
Exploring Portoferraio and the Citadel. How little I know about Elba but clearly there is lots to find out, the Medici family have made their mark here, Cosimo I de Medici built the larger of the two citadel forts. Their influence is everywhere in Tuscany and the Island and they are always interesting.
We found Napoleon's town house - he also had a country house elsewhere on the island, which makes it all sound as if he was here for a holiday, rather than under house arrest and in exile. Napoleon was not going to be lonely on Elba, having brought something like 900 of his troops with him, for protection (from what/who?) The local politicians seemed pretty pleased to have him resident on Elba, promptly declaring him "sovereign". Anyway, after a year or so, he hopped aboard a ship he had also thoughtfully brought with him, and returned to Italy to revive his campaign and, eventually, meet his Waterloo.
A very choppy journey in the dinghy, dodging ferries, back to the marina and make plans to move to an anchorage tomorrow.
Monday 18th July 2011
Moved from the calm of the marina into the anchorage in a "strong breeze" and choppy water, made more choppy by the comings and goings of the ferries. It took us a couple of attempts to get ourselves anchored in the right position, which I am sure provided some entertainment.
An attractive part of the bay with a beach and green hills above, we could just see what appears to be the remains of open cast mining for iron ore, there was a great deal of mining on Elba started in the first century BC by the Etruscans.
A little later the Guardia Costiera (very fierce with blue flashing lights on launch) arrived to forcibly shift half a dozen boats and check their papers. We were unsure what was going on and watched nervously in case we too attracted their attention. The reason for their noise and activity soon became clear, a large commercial vessel was being brought into the bay to offload benzina, or something, and their course took them right across the line of the first row of anchored boats. As entertainment goes I certainly rate this, it was a very lively hour or two, and we were certainly relieved we had read the Pilot Book before anchoring!
This is a serious rival to Palau in terms of rock 'n roll. The swell in the bay, enhanced at frequent intervals by the ferries and unhelpful motorboats, is relentless and uncomfortable - all pretty tiring and I doubt that we will have a good night's sleep.
Although there will still be some swell left from the recent strong winds, the weather looks fairish and wind is forecast southerly tomorrow, so we are planning to sail to Livorno on the mainland. There is much, much more to explore on Elba, so it goes on the list of places to return to.
Tuesday 19th July 2011 - Elba to Salivoli, near Piambino, Italy (Plan B)
After a predictably sleepless night, we made an optimistic start. The swell was as anticipated, perhaps a little worse than expected, but it was clouding over and we were surprised that the wind was northerly, quite strong and building. Progress was difficult, going into the swell and the wind. We ploughed on for an uncomfortable hour, before deciding to come up with Plan B. If the forecast was that wrong, we had little idea what was in store and decided the wise thing was to change course for the closest port on the mainland, which at that time was Salivoli, near Piombino.
It took another anxious hour to reach Salivoli, but the Capitainerie were efficient and friendly, responding to our call and directing us immediately into a decent berth in this very sheltered marina. Unfortunately I managed to cut my hand quite badly as I took the lines tailed to the quay, which I knew full well are usually spiked with sharp shells and crustaceans but muggins didn't use the boathook or have any gloves on. Painful lesson learned.
Salivoli doesn't get much of a write-up in the Heikell Pilot Book so we were not sure what to expect, but it turns out to be a real gem and deserves to be better known. The marina is very sheltered in all weather, with decent pontoons and quite a big yard, clean Sanitaires, in fact everything is well organised, spick and span.
A small beach (hand raked daily) and some little shops and restaurants nearby including, it should be noted, a small but very useful and efficient Chandlery. The charges are reasonable, much less than on Elba. Nothing flashy here, it just has a very good feel about it. They do lose one point for no WiFi though.
We took Rosie for her usual little walk and were much impressed that the digue is largely constructed of sizeable chunks of rough-cut marble in various attractive hues. How posh is that.
During the afternoon we had a shower of rain and the clouds looked increasingly menacing, so we battened down the hatches (well, put up the sprayhood anyway). I took Rosie out for her final walk in the evening - lightning and thunder all around - suddenly the heavens opened and we made a dash for the safety of the boat. The storm raged and the wind was very strong during the night, but in this super marina the boat hardly rocked at all.
Wednesday 20th July 2011
We awoke a bright blue sky and fierce winds of 35kts - the Mistral had reached us. We walked up to the digue to look at the huge seas and crashing waves, but all remained calm inside the marina.
We had been trying to get a replacement shear pin for the outboard since Palau, without sucess. The excellent Chandler in Salivoli went off to see his 'contacts' and tracked some down for us, which was brilliant. He also had stainless steel chain in stock - most unusual - so our stern anchor now has some very fancy S/S chain attached to it.
I went into the town to get some shopping - no supermarket, but small butchers, bakers, grocers, fruit and veg, all there. It is a modest place, so modest that there are no postcards available of Salivoli (sorry Izzy, Alex, Jemima and Sophie).
During the day we came up with the only redeeming feature of the Mistral - it makes the weather cool enough to dismantle the loo plumbing - which is what JRD busied himself with in the cool of today. The forward heads had given up some weeks ago, now the aft loo started to become increasingly unreliable and the time had come to investigate. Much 'de-calcing' (hitting pipe with hammer) and messing about with rubber flangey bits has done the job, we hope, and the loo is now gurgling and flushing happily (all fingers crossed please).
The wind is easing, so we will wait for the sea swell to diminish (and the crew's hand to recover) and make our way further up the coast towards Livorno and onward, in a day or two.
Thursday 21st July 2011
We were asked to move to another berth in the marina, the annual bertholder was returning (he didn't). Electricity unplugged, passerelle brought in, engine started, stern line removed, mooring warps unhooked from the quay, all in double quick time.....but something was missing - no wheel - panic stations! We had taken it off to accommodate the cockpit table, and forgotten to put it back! Rarely in the history of sailing has a wheel been bolted to a binnacle so fast!
It may not be obvious, but we are going north, rather than south as originally planned - a major change of plan took place some weeks ago. We have decided to return to France for this winter's laying up and look for a "home port" along the French coast which is where, on the whole, we like to be. We may continue to cruise down to Italy and the islands, but at the moment any plans to go further south, are on hold.
Well it might as well have been the Bay of Biscay - phew what a journey!
We knew there would be some swell after the recent high winds, but the forecast was for southerly winds going westerly later, maxing at 15kts, no probs, so we anticipated being able to sail. As soon as we left the harbour at Salivoli we were greeted with what Heikell calls a "confused" sea. As we turned northwards, there was a light wind right behind us, so no point in hoisting the sail (suspect the wind gauge is giving false readings?) The wind increased and went from southerly to northerly and then westerly, and we were in quite heavy sea by then with a significant swell running E/W across our path, corkscrewing us about very uncomfortably. Not the moment to rush on deck to release the sail ties. So we motored on for another four or five hours to Livorno, with no Mainsail to steady us, and no way of opening the fridge door to forage for lunch without the entire contents flinging themselves across the saloon. Fortunately I had a secret supply of Digestive biscuits....
Saturday 23rd July 2011
Come on, own up, who didn't cross their fingers.....the loo finally gave up the ghost quite spectacularly - no details, to protect those of delicate disposition. Clearly a major dismantling and repair is needed (where is the Mistral when you need it).
The centre of the city is laced with canals and just here and there you can see some very handsome 18th century merchants' houses along the banks among the rather dull new buildings. Much of Livorno was destroyed by bombing during the war.
Across the swing bridge from the Molo and Port Medicea Marina I was more than a little surprised to see a plaque dedicated to Roberto Dudley Duke of Northumberland - certainly didn't expect that, until I read a bit more about him. Illegitimate son of Robert Dudley Earl of Leicester, he was an intelligent and colourful character, a great navigator and map-maker, mathematician, and a design and build genius. After an adventurous young life, he decamped to Italy in 1605 (or 1612 depending which book you read), to the court of the de Medici family in Tuscany, under whose patronage he designed and oversaw the building of the Molo and Port at Livorno (17th Century bits sadly rather crumbling away), canals through the city, draining of the marshes between the city and Pisa, and various other major projects - hence the plaque. His title was, bizarrely, awarded by Duke Ferdinand II de Medici (young Dudley tried but failed to inherit his father's titles, and when he refused to return to England on the King's command, the estates he had inherited were forfeit to the Crown). History lesson over...now for double Art...
They have an extraordinary energy and drama, stunning - I am sorry the photographs don't do them justice, they have to be seen to feel the impact.
Apparently the two slaves who posed for the sculptures were awarded their freedom when the work was completed.
So, an interesting walkabout, and I got lost, despite having the map with me. Just one more walkabout tomorrow or Monday, to see if I can find any more treasures.
Monday 25th July 2011
The weather has changed, for the better, much warmer and calmer.
Armed without a map (no good to me, is it) but in the certain knowledge that the city would be full of English folk clutching maps as a huge cruise liner has appeared in port, I set off into Livorno again.
I followed the canals again, but this time I found not only the huge outdoor market, but a magnificent indoor market - a huge baroque building with masses of filigree wrought ironwork and elegant stonework, bristling with Italian flags, lovely aromas and noisy enthusiasm.
Meanwhile JRD had repaired the outboard motor bracket with Rosie's help, and has now gone on his expedition into Livorno, in search of wine and other "pro-things".
The plan is to move on tomorrow, weather permitting, towards Carrara or thereabouts.
Tuesday 26th July 2011 - Livorno to Carrara
Given that Livorno is as busy as Clapham Junction at rush hour, with ferries and cruise ships coming and going, we decided the best plan was to copy the local boats, follow a Sardinia Ferry out of Livorno, which would give us a clear run out of the port area, then make a quick right turn to the western end of the breakwater (shallow end, not used by ferries), and it worked a treat.
We hoisted the main and, eventually, the working jib, but only by going slightly off course were they of any use. An uneventful motor-sailing trip with little or no swell and in pleasantly warm weather.
We called up Carrara Marina as we arrived, but no response except from the harbourmaster who advised us to try Channel 74 - still no response and not a soul around in the marina. We helped ourselves to a berth on the outer pontoon, and subsequently discovered that this is really a yacht club, not a marina, occupying a corner of a commercial port, and the secretary has lunch from 12 noon to 4pm. However, they did not charge us for our berth as we didn't want electricity or water, and we only planned to stay for one night.
Carrara is famous only for the quality of its white marble, much favoured by the greatest of scuptors and builders, quarried on the outskirts of the town.
The pavements in the town centre are marble, as are most kerbs and street furniture. However, it seemed a sad little place, perhaps I just caught it on a bad day.
Wednesday 27th July 2011 - Carrara to Rapallo
A cloudy day dawned, and an extra-early start as we had a seven-hour journey ahead of us. The day remained cloudy and gloomy, getting colder and colder, to the point when we donned fleeces over our jumpers! Then the final straw - it rained.
Just beyond Porto Venere, Byron and Shelley country (including, predictably Byron's Grotto) we sailed between the Isola Palmaria and Isola del Tino, which seemed an impossibly narrow passage, but very deep (about 25 metres) only yards offshore.
As we approached Rapallo the sky lightened a bit which heartened us and, being advised that this was a busy marina in which we were most unlikely to secure a berth in high season, we decided to be bold and try the "Stadward technique" (as in Chris and Carrie Stadward, who successfully use this modus operandii whenever faced with an impossibly full marina) go directly to the fuel pontoon, whether or not you need fuel (we did) then march along to the Capitainerie/Direzione and request a berth.
In the event, a berth was no problem, in fact there are many empty spaces in Rapallo, as there seem to be in many of the popular resorts, which at the end of July and high season, is a surprise. The price was a bit eye-watering, but the place is pleasant, clean and well organised, with plenty of willing Ormeggiatori. They suggested we might like to pay an additional €30 for WiFi, which we declined, having already felt we had bought the place.
Rapallo marina, or Porto Carlo Riva, to give it its proper name, clearly used to be more familiar with super-yachts than the likes of us, but times, possibly, they are a-changing - although you wouldn't guess it in the marina shops where you can buy a Cartier watch, a fur coat, designer loafers, an original piece of modern art, antiques various, a boat or an apartment - but you cannot buy a loaf of bread or a litre of milk. The little Tabac tacked on the end of the row was the only shop in which I saw any customers.
The restaurant (which has an excellent chef) was empty most days, ditto the Yacht Club swimming pool (Members only).
Rapallo has a sort of faded glory - I kept thinking of Gloria Swanson saying "I'm ready for my close-up now Mr de Mille" (or something similar).
Many of the gloriously ornate and stylish 1930's villas in wonderfully bold shades of tan, ochre, yellow, maroon, pink, terra cotta and several other shades, are crumbling a bit at the edges, or downright derelict, and most seem to have survived by being divided into apartments - but there is the dreadful danger of the modern new-build swallowing up these grand old dames of architecture.
I was slightly taken aback to see yet another statue celebrating Christopher Columbus - Rapallo claims him too? Even more confused about the dedication on the base, dated 1914, with some reference to America.
Saturday 30th July 2011 - Rapallo to Finale Ligure
Due west all the way!
Out past Portofino (standing room only between the super-yachts and gin palaces anchored off, which rather justified our decision not to attempt a visit) the wind increased a little, enough to encourage us to haul up the Main and Working Jib, but not to any great effect.
The AIS again proved its value as we crossed the web of shipping lanes in and out of busy Genoa. On one occasion we had to take avoiding action as a large container vessel approached at 16kts on a reciprocal course and no intention of deviating, we then spotted the MOBY ferry coming out of Genoa across our starboard bow, but quickly realised there was no danger of collision as it was already doing 25kts! They passed well ahead of us as we trundled along at our average 5.5kts...
The entrance to Finale Ligure has a reported depth of between 2.3 and 2.5 metres, so we only just avoided ploughing a furrow on our way in.
The marina is large (300 berths) but feels small and is low key, partly unfinished and quite unsophisticated. I tried my best Italian on the VHF, but couldn't understand a word of the responses. However, the Ormeggiatori hailed us from the quay and secured us into a berth, all very helpful and pleasant.
They have several surprisingly good beaches here, they even have yellow sand, rather than the grey gritty stuff, or pebbles. However, strictly no dogs allowed - so near and yet so far, poor Rosie.
Access to the main beach is via a very smart boardwalk hanging off the cliff face, from which the young (and foolish?) were diving more than 50ft down into the sea.
Westwards again tomorrow, not sure where yet, that's up for debate over supper and more Italian plonk from the plastic container, which is still remarkably good!
Monday 1st August 2011 - Finale Ligure to San Lorenzo
A flat calm, twinkly blue sea, blue sky and no wind, this was going to be pretty straightforward - and how I had imagined cruising in the Mediterranean to be. We have learned on our travels that it is rarely this straightforward in the Med.
A small diversion engaged us, a huge plume of smoke on the horizon, being attended by a large boat - still wondering if it was some ghastly accident, or just Finale Ligure burning their rubbish at sea. Otherwise, nothing to report.
San Lorenzo is such a new marina that it was not on our Chart - a first for us! We took Mr. Heikell's waypoint, plotted it on our chart and headed for it.
As we approached the entrance to San Lorenzo we called them on the VHF to request a berth. Initially no response, and finally a female voice, rather hesitantly asked if I had their telephone number and could I telephone! By that time we were in the Marina and replied pretty firmly - fortunately she got the message and sent an Ormeggiatori out to meet us on the nearest pontoon. Clearly they are very new at their jobs and as yet entirely unused to visiting boats, or VHF, and had little idea what to say or do.
The marina is unfinished and rather new to its role. Millions of Euros have been/are being spent here creating a Marina from scratch - one would think they (whoever they are) would get it right. There is a hotel and restaurant (up and running but not much sign of life) two huge "commercial centres" (only one unit, a very small Chandlery actually in occupation, all other units empty), apartments (some occupied), other buildings which we could not identify, and foundations for yet more unidentifiable buildings.
The Capitainerie have awarded themselves very nice premises, but they are clearly staffed by rank amateurs. The WCs and Showers are in a sort of underground bunker and one is paddling around in pools of water (hope it is water!) - not good for brand new.
Now given all that, it is quite surprising how many boats were there, presumably on Annual Licences, there didn't seem to be any "visiting" yachts, except us.
The town of San Lorenzo is about 15 minutes walk away, rather detached from the Marina, and has limited appeal. I found myself longing for a Carrefour or Intermarche, anything to make the shopping less of a marathon trudge from butcher to baker to candlestickmaker.....and I never did find a launderette.
San Lorenzo Marina has an awfully long way to go to get anywhere near the quality of little Solenzara and Salivoli.
A couple of days in San Lorenzo is quite enough - onwards (or backwards, depending on how you look at it) to France tomorrow.
Wednesday 3rd August 2011 - San Lorenzo (Italy) to Port St. Jean Cap Ferrat (France)
Rather a late start as the Capitainerie staff hadn't arrived - nearly ten o'clock by the time we managed to pay the bill and escape. It was a sunny day, sparkly blue sea, a light wind. We hoisted the Main which saved a little diesel as we were able to reduce the revs and still tootle along at 6 kts. The wind steadily increased and then disappeared - typical Med style.
We slipped from Italy to France without incident. We could tell when we reached Monaco, just by the exponential increase in number of helicopters buzzing overhead!
As we approached Cap Ferrat - St. Jean Cap Ferrat to give it its correct title - there was a significant increase in activity on the sea, this is much busier than the Italian Rivera. We have been told, and I cannot vouch for the veracity of this, that increasing numbers of super-rich Italians have moved their super yachts here from Italian waters to put them beyond the grasp of the tax authorities, who would seize them in lieu of unpaid taxes!
Given that Cap Ferrat is so popular, we decided to try the Stadward technique again - refuel and then secure a berth, and feel fortunate to have done so as the marina is full.
Cap Ferrat has a villagey feel about the place, little shops along the quay, a town square, small streets. The huge mansions above the bay, and the super yachts, indicate some prosperous natives (or lots of Italians who owe huge amounts of unpaid taxes?).
Thursday 4th August 2011
Walked over the peninsula, which is very narrow and only a short walk, to have a look at Villefranche, which is a decent marina and has the advantage of being in a sheltered bay.
Friday 5th August 2011 - Cap Ferrat to St. Raphael
A pretty uneventful motorsail - we found ourselves counting the planes in and out of Nice airport - that's how uneventful it was. A couple of dolphins joined us at one point, but not for long enough to get a photograph. The sea was really pretty calm, but the wake from the huge volume of passing/crossing jetskis, RIBs, motorboats, motor launches, motor yachts, super yachts, super-duper yachts, made it pretty turbulent going!
Port Santa Lucia St. Raphael is a huge (1500 berths) marina in two "basins", North and South.
We headed for the nearest, South, entrance and called up on the VHF, and were very crisply redirected by the Capitainerie to the North entrance and a berth, which was pretty efficient of them.
We plan to stay here a few days, partly because of the threat of some strong winds, and also to meet up with old friends Jenny and Gordon Scott.
First and most important though I MUST find a launderette - so a wander through the little commercial area alongside the moorings is in order.
The town and marina are modern, no interesting architecture here, alongside the quay are lots of little restaurants, café bars, boulangeries and other shops, a huge 'Palais de Congres' arena, sailing schools, all the usual stuff, all pretty comprehensive and plenty of tree planting which makes it pleasant and shady. The beach is extensive, but all pebbles.
Saturday 6th August 2011
Lunch with J&G at a restaurant overlooking the sea, a lovely sparkly, sunny Mediterranean day. All thoughts of cleaning the boat and visiting the launderette are shelved until Sunday - especially as the mother of all thunderstorms is now raging right overhead!
Monday 8th August 2011
Well it started well enough, we took another precautionary turn on our mooring ropes, added another line to the pontoon, and set off for another jolly lunch with J&G in Fréjus - where I think most of France is currently on their vacances - jam-packed!
A fresh breeze turned into a full blown Mistral with gusts up to 70kph (at which point the anemometer gave up!) and every mooring rope is strained to the limit. Each row of boats is leaning, one on the next, fenders squashed flat, halyards cracking like whips against masts, groaning rigging, lines stretching and creaking, everything which was not tied down is on its way to the Sahara. It really isn't doing our paintwork (or our nerves) any good at all. Not much sleep tonight until the storm blows through.
The choice of diversionary DVD entertainment is a bit eclectic - SHREK 3, Shutter Island or the entire Morse collection - we might need it all!
It looks as though we will be in St. Raphael for a few more days until the wind and sea swell has calmed down.
Tuesday and Wednesday....
The Mistral has blown itself out and we enjoyed a couple of days pottering, which is very welcome and revived us at the end of a busy cruising season.
Saturday 13th August 2011 - Bormes Les Mimosas to Bandol
A fine, sunny day and calm sea, no point in hoisting any sail. As we passed behind the Île du Levant, Île de Port-Cros and Porquerolles, we were aided by a westerly current which we lost as we crossed the Rade de Toulon. There was a significant fleet of sailing boats heading westwards on the same course as ELECTRA, presumably a sign that the holiday season is nearing its end. As we passed Porquerolles we realised we were back on the reciprocal course of the earliest days of our cruise. It seems an awful lot longer than just two months ago that we set out; we have learned an awful lot about the boat, cruising, Med-mooring, and ourselves, in that time.
The sea become quite "confused" and choppy off Porquerolles, this was in no way helped by an idiot in an 70' motor yacht (embarrassingly a British registered boat) which followed in our wake doing 20 kts and swerved narrowly around us causing a huge wave and wake. This was tricky enough for us to deal with, but the poor chap single-handed in a little 20' sailing boat behind us was almost awash and in serious trouble. The idiot then proceeded to swerve through the rest of the 'fleet' ahead of us. The offending boat was called "WHATEVER" - quite.
In the quieter moments of any cruise we listen to the VHF general traffic. The signal station staff seem to comunicate in English with every nationality of boat - calls go something like "motoyoXYZmotoyoXYZdisisinyalstayshunXYZdieuyuridmiova?" We found them difficult to understand and for ages I was puzzled that a vessel called MOTOYO was called so frequently! (translation......motor yacht.....with a french accent.....I know, it took me ages to get it too)
Bandol Capitainerie are obviously not keen on VHF, we were well inside the Marina by the time they responded and asked us to go on to the Accueil pontoon (this is a rarity, an Accueil pontoon which is actually used for that purpose, usually they are simply used as moorings) and present our papers at the Capitainerie. As it turned out this was an entirely unnecessary performance, as the berth they allocated was just a few yards away. With a bit of a struggle over the aft line tailed to the quay (a hefty great chain) we got ourselves organised and had a well-deserved, rather late, lunch.
The afternoon's entertainment was rich indeed! First of all we were treated to the SNSM (RNLI in French) doing some demonstration helicopter and boat rescues, including a demonstration by rescue dogs, right in front of the marina.
As soon as this was over, it was followed by an impromptu pantomime by dozens of boats attempting to get into/out of the marina and access the fuel pontoon, which is just opposite our berth. Rarely have we been treated to such a riveting and chaotic melée - nail-biting tension, vain attempts at dignity and lots of slapstick, expletives, gesticulation, humour, good seamanship and complete absence of any ability whatsoever with boat or rope or sense of direction. It was all there, and hugely entertaining. I suspect that all those of us who stood looking on in amazement, were thinking "there but for the grace of ....."
Bandol - such an Irish sounding name for a French town - has rather a good feel to it. A traditional Provençale port town (tho' barely in Provence), which has has the appearance of having grown organically, no aggressively modern development scarring the town centre - just at one end of town a hideous Casino, of which they are inordinately proud (I dare say it pays for a goodly proportion of the Mayor and Corporation's ambitions).
The houses along the quay are mostly tall and narrow, but a mixture of shapes and sizes and colours, with traditional painted shutters and filigree wrought iron balconies, looking rather like an untidily stacked bookshelf of well-read volumes. They tend to have little shops and restaurants at street level which are not always tasteful, but have a sort of appeal. The municipal flowerbeds, planters and tubs are planted with herbs (as well as flowers!) which is lovely and they give off a pleasant whiff in the August sun.
Within a few minutes walk of the marina we found a variety of delightful shops and restaurants, especially 2 or 3 streets back, and a lively market every day and night, which makes life easier for us boaty-folk.
The town is in a a sort of grid pattern, with the "horizontal" streets pedestrianised - so instead of dodging cars, one has to dodge the cafe tables and fruit 'n veg stalls - much safer.
The local traditional fishing Barques are parked along the town quay, looking just like feluccas (is there an Egyptian connection?). On 15th August, a local feast day which we were told was quite a modern celebration of the liberation of Provence and the Var, the statue of HMMoG & Son is brought from the church and taken to sea in one of these Barques, with lots of razamatazz.
In the main square stands an eye-catching bronze statue, a sort of Pan figure. The bronze is dark green/brown, except for just one little bit of Pan's anatomy, polished to a shiny gold colour by a thousand hands touching it for luck, or something. Bless.
There is a sandy beach near to the marina, but no dogs allowed so only secret visits for Rosie in the early hours or late at night, when she takes it upon herself to clear the beach and prom of all seagulls and pigeons - the pesky little rascals keep coming back for more, it's a big job for one little dog - and then she sits in the sea to cool off.
The marina is quite new, but for some reason it has been built back to front. All the pontoons are accessed from the town quay, in the traditional (but now rather old fashioned) way, but no access from the pontoons to the Capitainerie except by dinghy or a rather long walk into town and down the digue.
I include the panorama photo below, as you can clearly see blue ELECTRA in a sea of white boats in the marina, which is pretty extensive. This photograph indicates a rather large modern town, which it is in part, but still retains a cosy and characterful centre.
Sunday 14th August 2011
Jenny and Gordon joining us for lunch on the boat - Jenny's birthday - so I think a quick trip to the market, Boulangerie and Charcuterie to stock up, and perhaps a drop of fizzy ohbejoyful and maybe some of those deliciously sticky fruit tartelettes would be appropriate too. Yummy, I am glad Jenny chose to spend her birthday with us!
It was a lovely day, all we did was eat, drink and chat, and it couldn't have been better. Gordon brought the balloons and candles, lots of ice and more ohbejoyful, we attempted "Happy Birthday to you" en français and the neighbours quite possibly felt we were barking mad.
Back to reality, the weather (at least the wind) will not be in our favour tomorrow. Heading directly into a westerly wind is no fun and makes the journey very plodding, so we will stay in Bandol for an extra day. A good place to be delayed awhile.
Just outside the entrance to the Marina is the rather Tolkeinesque sounding Île de Bendor, home of Paul Ricard (he of the eponymous aniseed apéritif) a son of the Camargue and would-be artist. In 1932 his father, a wine trader, told his son to go and get a proper job - which happened to coincide with the French Government lifting the nigh-on twenty year ban on absinthe and it became once again legal to produce aniseed flavoured alcoholic beverages in France. Young Ricard created a blend of herbs, anise and alcohol, inventing his famous pastis drink, and the rest is history. Much better than that, he rather brightly realised that fennel grown in the Camargue produces just as good an aniseed flavour for pastis as the expensively imported Star Anise - a much needed new industry was born in the Camargue and a great fortune was made for the Ricard family. Île de Bendor is still a Ricard family home, but is also open to the public, it has a little quay and anchorage, along with a museum and art gallery.
Wednesday 17th August 2011 - Bandol to Port de la Pointe-Rouge
Our departure from Bandol was delayed, mostly by the weather, but partly I think we were just enjoying ourselves - so a Monday departure became a Wednesday departure.
We set sail, well we set off motoring, into a flat calm sea, sunshine, and light wind right behind us - no point in hoisting any sail. That is more or less how it remained throughout the journey until we turned north round the Cap Croisette, towards Marseille and Pointe Rouge, our destination. By that time the wind had freshened to 14 kts but it was short lived and too late to bother with any sail for the last half an hour into the marina.
Very few boats going westward, so perhaps the big end-of-holiday rush was last weekend, but I guess there may be another mass exodus at the end of August. We were sailing through familiar territory, on a reciprocal course to our outward journey in June. Just beyond La Ciotat and the 'Bec de l'Aigle' rock the red cliffs give way to limestone and the deep Calanques, the landscape changes yet again. It was good to see familiar landmarks and confirms our feelings about staying in this area - we like it.
Pointe Rouge is a suburb of Marseille and the marina is largely dedicated to small craft, including racks of motorboats on the quay which we had last seen at Port Leucate in 2009. There are only about 200 masts in a marina of more than 1500 boats. Not an attractive place, just functional.
We tied up at the fuel pontoon, which was tricky as the nice, smooth concrete quay ended in a jumble of sharp rocks more or less where our bow was! Having sorted out the fuel, we secured a berth although it was clear that the Capitainerie are entirely unused to visitors in this marina and really didn't welcome them. Mooring was tricky - the crew made a hash of lasooing the horn cleats on the pontoon. No help was forthcoming from the Capitainerie, or anyone else, until Mrs.D shouted sternly to a vacant-looking bystander, and instructed him to take the bow ropes, which he meekly did. Eventually we sorted out which were our stern-lines and settled down to a decent lunch on a very, very hot day.
Only the second time we have not bothered with a photograph of our destination, nothing photogenic about it, just another marina with rather a grim beach next to it. Rosie enjoyed chasing the seagulls on the beach in the early hours, so one of us was happy.
Onward, westward, tomorrow to Port Napoleon.
Thursday 18th August 2011 - Pointe-Rouge to Port Napoleon
We made a dignified exit from Pointe Rouge at around 8 o'clock, the sea was flat calm and what wind there was, was almost on our tail. We hoisted the Main, more out of sentimentality on our last voyage of the season than in any hope of actually sailing. After about an hour all sentiment was exhausted by the tiresome clanking of a flapping sail and boom, so we dropped the Main and motored on.
The sea became increasingly choppy but not uncomfortably so; as we rounded Cap Couronne and along the commercial coastline of the Golfe de Fos there was a clutter of tankers and container vessels at anchor and going to and fro at 20 knots.
Then suddenly we were turning into the tranquil, low, flat wetlands of the Rhone delta for Port Napoleon and seeing the familiar view - fishermen standing waist-deep in the shallows just yards away either side of the narrow channel, mussel-farms, little huntsmen's and fishermens's shacks on the few outcrops of rock, flamingoes and seabirds of every variety, a forest of masts in the marina and the swallows are still swooping through the rigging.
Willing hands took our ropes as we arrived back where we had started.
En route we lost: four fender covers, our fear of Med-mooring, a shackle key, one pair of spectacles and a bit of weight.
We gained: shedloads of experience, confidence, and a much greater understanding of ourselves and the boat, an old age Pension, a suntan and a scrumptious handbag.
Tonight we celebrate!
Given that Livorno is as busy as Clapham Junction at rush hour, with ferries and cruise ships coming and going, we decided the best plan was to copy the local boats, follow a Sardinia Ferry out of Livorno, which would give us a clear run out of the port area, then make a quick right turn to the western end of the breakwater (shallow end, not used by ferries), and it worked a treat.
We hoisted the main and, eventually, the working jib, but only by going slightly off course were they of any use. An uneventful motor-sailing trip with little or no swell and in pleasantly warm weather.
We called up Carrara Marina as we arrived, but no response except from the harbourmaster who advised us to try Channel 74 - still no response and not a soul around in the marina. We helped ourselves to a berth on the outer pontoon, and subsequently discovered that this is really a yacht club, not a marina, occupying a corner of a commercial port, and the secretary has lunch from 12 noon to 4pm. However, they did not charge us for our berth as we didn't want electricity or water, and we only planned to stay for one night.
The pavements in the town centre are marble, as are most kerbs and street furniture. However, it seemed a sad little place, perhaps I just caught it on a bad day.
Wednesday 27th July 2011 - Carrara to Rapallo
A cloudy day dawned, and an extra-early start as we had a seven-hour journey ahead of us. The day remained cloudy and gloomy, getting colder and colder, to the point when we donned fleeces over our jumpers! Then the final straw - it rained.
Just beyond Porto Venere, Byron and Shelley country (including, predictably Byron's Grotto) we sailed between the Isola Palmaria and Isola del Tino, which seemed an impossibly narrow passage, but very deep (about 25 metres) only yards offshore.
As we approached Rapallo the sky lightened a bit which heartened us and, being advised that this was a busy marina in which we were most unlikely to secure a berth in high season, we decided to be bold and try the "Stadward technique" (as in Chris and Carrie Stadward, who successfully use this modus operandii whenever faced with an impossibly full marina) go directly to the fuel pontoon, whether or not you need fuel (we did) then march along to the Capitainerie/Direzione and request a berth.
Rapallo marina, or Porto Carlo Riva, to give it its proper name, clearly used to be more familiar with super-yachts than the likes of us, but times, possibly, they are a-changing - although you wouldn't guess it in the marina shops where you can buy a Cartier watch, a fur coat, designer loafers, an original piece of modern art, antiques various, a boat or an apartment - but you cannot buy a loaf of bread or a litre of milk. The little Tabac tacked on the end of the row was the only shop in which I saw any customers.The restaurant (which has an excellent chef) was empty most days, ditto the Yacht Club swimming pool (Members only).
Rapallo has a sort of faded glory - I kept thinking of Gloria Swanson saying "I'm ready for my close-up now Mr de Mille" (or something similar).Many of the gloriously ornate and stylish 1930's villas in wonderfully bold shades of tan, ochre, yellow, maroon, pink, terra cotta and several other shades, are crumbling a bit at the edges, or downright derelict, and most seem to have survived by being divided into apartments - but there is the dreadful danger of the modern new-build swallowing up these grand old dames of architecture.
I was slightly taken aback to see yet another statue celebrating Christopher Columbus - Rapallo claims him too? Even more confused about the dedication on the base, dated 1914, with some reference to America.
Thursday 28th July 2011 - my 60th birthday!
What a lovely day - a completely amazing Italian handbag from JRD, a special video performance from Izzy and Alex, chatty phone call with Jemima and Sophie, champagne and a totally delicious lunch at the Yacht Club - much snoozing needed in the afternoon.
Friday 29th July 2011
I have discovered a bit of a treasure in Rapallo. Two streets back (where everything good happens it seems) in Piazza Venezia there is a little wine shop 'Vincanto' owned and run by a delightful Australian girl, where I was urged to taste before I bought (its 10am!) and settled for 3 litres of local white wine from the barrel, decanted into a plastic container, no pretensions there. Happily the same delightful Australian has a fruit and veg stall on the pavement outside the shop and she was able to direct me to the best place to buy the freshest bread, tastiest ham and everything else she didn't sell herself, and armed me with some handy Italian phrases. Brilliant.
What a lovely day - a completely amazing Italian handbag from JRD, a special video performance from Izzy and Alex, chatty phone call with Jemima and Sophie, champagne and a totally delicious lunch at the Yacht Club - much snoozing needed in the afternoon.
Friday 29th July 2011
I have discovered a bit of a treasure in Rapallo. Two streets back (where everything good happens it seems) in Piazza Venezia there is a little wine shop 'Vincanto' owned and run by a delightful Australian girl, where I was urged to taste before I bought (its 10am!) and settled for 3 litres of local white wine from the barrel, decanted into a plastic container, no pretensions there. Happily the same delightful Australian has a fruit and veg stall on the pavement outside the shop and she was able to direct me to the best place to buy the freshest bread, tastiest ham and everything else she didn't sell herself, and armed me with some handy Italian phrases. Brilliant.
Saturday 30th July 2011 - Rapallo to Finale Ligure
Due west all the way!
Out past Portofino (standing room only between the super-yachts and gin palaces anchored off, which rather justified our decision not to attempt a visit) the wind increased a little, enough to encourage us to haul up the Main and Working Jib, but not to any great effect.
The AIS again proved its value as we crossed the web of shipping lanes in and out of busy Genoa. On one occasion we had to take avoiding action as a large container vessel approached at 16kts on a reciprocal course and no intention of deviating, we then spotted the MOBY ferry coming out of Genoa across our starboard bow, but quickly realised there was no danger of collision as it was already doing 25kts! They passed well ahead of us as we trundled along at our average 5.5kts...
The entrance to Finale Ligure has a reported depth of between 2.3 and 2.5 metres, so we only just avoided ploughing a furrow on our way in.
The marina is large (300 berths) but feels small and is low key, partly unfinished and quite unsophisticated. I tried my best Italian on the VHF, but couldn't understand a word of the responses. However, the Ormeggiatori hailed us from the quay and secured us into a berth, all very helpful and pleasant.
They have several surprisingly good beaches here, they even have yellow sand, rather than the grey gritty stuff, or pebbles. However, strictly no dogs allowed - so near and yet so far, poor Rosie.
Access to the main beach is via a very smart boardwalk hanging off the cliff face, from which the young (and foolish?) were diving more than 50ft down into the sea.
Westwards again tomorrow, not sure where yet, that's up for debate over supper and more Italian plonk from the plastic container, which is still remarkably good!Monday 1st August 2011 - Finale Ligure to San Lorenzo
A flat calm, twinkly blue sea, blue sky and no wind, this was going to be pretty straightforward - and how I had imagined cruising in the Mediterranean to be. We have learned on our travels that it is rarely this straightforward in the Med.
A small diversion engaged us, a huge plume of smoke on the horizon, being attended by a large boat - still wondering if it was some ghastly accident, or just Finale Ligure burning their rubbish at sea. Otherwise, nothing to report.
San Lorenzo is such a new marina that it was not on our Chart - a first for us! We took Mr. Heikell's waypoint, plotted it on our chart and headed for it.As we approached the entrance to San Lorenzo we called them on the VHF to request a berth. Initially no response, and finally a female voice, rather hesitantly asked if I had their telephone number and could I telephone! By that time we were in the Marina and replied pretty firmly - fortunately she got the message and sent an Ormeggiatori out to meet us on the nearest pontoon. Clearly they are very new at their jobs and as yet entirely unused to visiting boats, or VHF, and had little idea what to say or do.
The marina is unfinished and rather new to its role. Millions of Euros have been/are being spent here creating a Marina from scratch - one would think they (whoever they are) would get it right. There is a hotel and restaurant (up and running but not much sign of life) two huge "commercial centres" (only one unit, a very small Chandlery actually in occupation, all other units empty), apartments (some occupied), other buildings which we could not identify, and foundations for yet more unidentifiable buildings.
The Capitainerie have awarded themselves very nice premises, but they are clearly staffed by rank amateurs. The WCs and Showers are in a sort of underground bunker and one is paddling around in pools of water (hope it is water!) - not good for brand new. Now given all that, it is quite surprising how many boats were there, presumably on Annual Licences, there didn't seem to be any "visiting" yachts, except us.
The town of San Lorenzo is about 15 minutes walk away, rather detached from the Marina, and has limited appeal. I found myself longing for a Carrefour or Intermarche, anything to make the shopping less of a marathon trudge from butcher to baker to candlestickmaker.....and I never did find a launderette.
San Lorenzo Marina has an awfully long way to go to get anywhere near the quality of little Solenzara and Salivoli.
A couple of days in San Lorenzo is quite enough - onwards (or backwards, depending on how you look at it) to France tomorrow.
Wednesday 3rd August 2011 - San Lorenzo (Italy) to Port St. Jean Cap Ferrat (France)
Rather a late start as the Capitainerie staff hadn't arrived - nearly ten o'clock by the time we managed to pay the bill and escape. It was a sunny day, sparkly blue sea, a light wind. We hoisted the Main which saved a little diesel as we were able to reduce the revs and still tootle along at 6 kts. The wind steadily increased and then disappeared - typical Med style.
As we approached Cap Ferrat - St. Jean Cap Ferrat to give it its correct title - there was a significant increase in activity on the sea, this is much busier than the Italian Rivera. We have been told, and I cannot vouch for the veracity of this, that increasing numbers of super-rich Italians have moved their super yachts here from Italian waters to put them beyond the grasp of the tax authorities, who would seize them in lieu of unpaid taxes!
Given that Cap Ferrat is so popular, we decided to try the Stadward technique again - refuel and then secure a berth, and feel fortunate to have done so as the marina is full.
Cap Ferrat has a villagey feel about the place, little shops along the quay, a town square, small streets. The huge mansions above the bay, and the super yachts, indicate some prosperous natives (or lots of Italians who owe huge amounts of unpaid taxes?).
Thursday 4th August 2011
Walked over the peninsula, which is very narrow and only a short walk, to have a look at Villefranche, which is a decent marina and has the advantage of being in a sheltered bay.
Lots of superyachts anchored in the bay, as expected, but we found a deserted little beach, which was completely unexpected in this neck of the woods.
Rosie had a swim - a real treat for her as most beaches are out of bounds for dogs in the summer months.
Otherwise, just a quiet day's R&R.
A pretty uneventful motorsail - we found ourselves counting the planes in and out of Nice airport - that's how uneventful it was. A couple of dolphins joined us at one point, but not for long enough to get a photograph. The sea was really pretty calm, but the wake from the huge volume of passing/crossing jetskis, RIBs, motorboats, motor launches, motor yachts, super yachts, super-duper yachts, made it pretty turbulent going!
Port Santa Lucia St. Raphael is a huge (1500 berths) marina in two "basins", North and South.
We headed for the nearest, South, entrance and called up on the VHF, and were very crisply redirected by the Capitainerie to the North entrance and a berth, which was pretty efficient of them.
We plan to stay here a few days, partly because of the threat of some strong winds, and also to meet up with old friends Jenny and Gordon Scott.
First and most important though I MUST find a launderette - so a wander through the little commercial area alongside the moorings is in order.
The town and marina are modern, no interesting architecture here, alongside the quay are lots of little restaurants, café bars, boulangeries and other shops, a huge 'Palais de Congres' arena, sailing schools, all the usual stuff, all pretty comprehensive and plenty of tree planting which makes it pleasant and shady. The beach is extensive, but all pebbles.
Saturday 6th August 2011
Lunch with J&G at a restaurant overlooking the sea, a lovely sparkly, sunny Mediterranean day. All thoughts of cleaning the boat and visiting the launderette are shelved until Sunday - especially as the mother of all thunderstorms is now raging right overhead!
Monday 8th August 2011
Well it started well enough, we took another precautionary turn on our mooring ropes, added another line to the pontoon, and set off for another jolly lunch with J&G in Fréjus - where I think most of France is currently on their vacances - jam-packed!
A fresh breeze turned into a full blown Mistral with gusts up to 70kph (at which point the anemometer gave up!) and every mooring rope is strained to the limit. Each row of boats is leaning, one on the next, fenders squashed flat, halyards cracking like whips against masts, groaning rigging, lines stretching and creaking, everything which was not tied down is on its way to the Sahara. It really isn't doing our paintwork (or our nerves) any good at all. Not much sleep tonight until the storm blows through.
The choice of diversionary DVD entertainment is a bit eclectic - SHREK 3, Shutter Island or the entire Morse collection - we might need it all!
It looks as though we will be in St. Raphael for a few more days until the wind and sea swell has calmed down.
Tuesday and Wednesday....
The Mistral has blown itself out and we enjoyed a couple of days pottering, which is very welcome and revived us at the end of a busy cruising season.
Thursday 11th August 2011 - St. Raphael to Bormes les Mimosas
Thursday dawned calmly, with a light northerly wind. We were able to hoist the Main and Working Jib, reducing revs to save a bit of diesel. As ever, the wind was flukey and we lowered the Working Jib after an hour or so, but we seemed to pick up a westerly current which was unexpected and helpful. Eventually the wind went round to the south which kept the Main full and gave us half a knot.
We spotted one or two attractive anchorages along the way, as we approached Le Lavendou and Bormes, and have carefully marked them on the chart for future years!
The Bormes Capitainerie were very communicative and efficient, and allocated a berth immediately on the quay under the sea wall, and sent someone out to help us with mooring warps. This is a pretty shallow area of the marina (less than half a metre under the keel) and we were glad we went in bows-to as we warily eyed up the rocks and debris alongside the quay under our bows.
Hard to find fault with Bormes Les Mimosas which is a purpose-built marina and "village". Clearly it doesn't have the character of an old port marina, but there are compensations - efficiently organised, clean, seriously good Sanitaires, two extensive sandy beaches, restaurants, shops, dog-walking areas, two traditional villages nearby; not beautiful but pleasant and not an overly-expensive daily rate.
This is in an almost ideal area and a serious contender as a new"home port" for us, but as with all the best Marinas, an annual berth is almost impossible to come by and seriously expensive. We would have to negotiate to see if we can get a couple of months here in the summer.
Thursday dawned calmly, with a light northerly wind. We were able to hoist the Main and Working Jib, reducing revs to save a bit of diesel. As ever, the wind was flukey and we lowered the Working Jib after an hour or so, but we seemed to pick up a westerly current which was unexpected and helpful. Eventually the wind went round to the south which kept the Main full and gave us half a knot.
We spotted one or two attractive anchorages along the way, as we approached Le Lavendou and Bormes, and have carefully marked them on the chart for future years!
The Bormes Capitainerie were very communicative and efficient, and allocated a berth immediately on the quay under the sea wall, and sent someone out to help us with mooring warps. This is a pretty shallow area of the marina (less than half a metre under the keel) and we were glad we went in bows-to as we warily eyed up the rocks and debris alongside the quay under our bows.
Hard to find fault with Bormes Les Mimosas which is a purpose-built marina and "village". Clearly it doesn't have the character of an old port marina, but there are compensations - efficiently organised, clean, seriously good Sanitaires, two extensive sandy beaches, restaurants, shops, dog-walking areas, two traditional villages nearby; not beautiful but pleasant and not an overly-expensive daily rate.
Saturday 13th August 2011 - Bormes Les Mimosas to Bandol
A fine, sunny day and calm sea, no point in hoisting any sail. As we passed behind the Île du Levant, Île de Port-Cros and Porquerolles, we were aided by a westerly current which we lost as we crossed the Rade de Toulon. There was a significant fleet of sailing boats heading westwards on the same course as ELECTRA, presumably a sign that the holiday season is nearing its end. As we passed Porquerolles we realised we were back on the reciprocal course of the earliest days of our cruise. It seems an awful lot longer than just two months ago that we set out; we have learned an awful lot about the boat, cruising, Med-mooring, and ourselves, in that time.
The sea become quite "confused" and choppy off Porquerolles, this was in no way helped by an idiot in an 70' motor yacht (embarrassingly a British registered boat) which followed in our wake doing 20 kts and swerved narrowly around us causing a huge wave and wake. This was tricky enough for us to deal with, but the poor chap single-handed in a little 20' sailing boat behind us was almost awash and in serious trouble. The idiot then proceeded to swerve through the rest of the 'fleet' ahead of us. The offending boat was called "WHATEVER" - quite.
In the quieter moments of any cruise we listen to the VHF general traffic. The signal station staff seem to comunicate in English with every nationality of boat - calls go something like "motoyoXYZmotoyoXYZdisisinyalstayshunXYZdieuyuridmiova?" We found them difficult to understand and for ages I was puzzled that a vessel called MOTOYO was called so frequently! (translation......motor yacht.....with a french accent.....I know, it took me ages to get it too)
Bandol Capitainerie are obviously not keen on VHF, we were well inside the Marina by the time they responded and asked us to go on to the Accueil pontoon (this is a rarity, an Accueil pontoon which is actually used for that purpose, usually they are simply used as moorings) and present our papers at the Capitainerie. As it turned out this was an entirely unnecessary performance, as the berth they allocated was just a few yards away. With a bit of a struggle over the aft line tailed to the quay (a hefty great chain) we got ourselves organised and had a well-deserved, rather late, lunch.
As soon as this was over, it was followed by an impromptu pantomime by dozens of boats attempting to get into/out of the marina and access the fuel pontoon, which is just opposite our berth. Rarely have we been treated to such a riveting and chaotic melée - nail-biting tension, vain attempts at dignity and lots of slapstick, expletives, gesticulation, humour, good seamanship and complete absence of any ability whatsoever with boat or rope or sense of direction. It was all there, and hugely entertaining. I suspect that all those of us who stood looking on in amazement, were thinking "there but for the grace of ....."
The houses along the quay are mostly tall and narrow, but a mixture of shapes and sizes and colours, with traditional painted shutters and filigree wrought iron balconies, looking rather like an untidily stacked bookshelf of well-read volumes. They tend to have little shops and restaurants at street level which are not always tasteful, but have a sort of appeal. The municipal flowerbeds, planters and tubs are planted with herbs (as well as flowers!) which is lovely and they give off a pleasant whiff in the August sun.
Within a few minutes walk of the marina we found a variety of delightful shops and restaurants, especially 2 or 3 streets back, and a lively market every day and night, which makes life easier for us boaty-folk.The town is in a a sort of grid pattern, with the "horizontal" streets pedestrianised - so instead of dodging cars, one has to dodge the cafe tables and fruit 'n veg stalls - much safer.
The local traditional fishing Barques are parked along the town quay, looking just like feluccas (is there an Egyptian connection?). On 15th August, a local feast day which we were told was quite a modern celebration of the liberation of Provence and the Var, the statue of HMMoG & Son is brought from the church and taken to sea in one of these Barques, with lots of razamatazz.
In the main square stands an eye-catching bronze statue, a sort of Pan figure. The bronze is dark green/brown, except for just one little bit of Pan's anatomy, polished to a shiny gold colour by a thousand hands touching it for luck, or something. Bless.There is a sandy beach near to the marina, but no dogs allowed so only secret visits for Rosie in the early hours or late at night, when she takes it upon herself to clear the beach and prom of all seagulls and pigeons - the pesky little rascals keep coming back for more, it's a big job for one little dog - and then she sits in the sea to cool off.
The marina is quite new, but for some reason it has been built back to front. All the pontoons are accessed from the town quay, in the traditional (but now rather old fashioned) way, but no access from the pontoons to the Capitainerie except by dinghy or a rather long walk into town and down the digue.
I include the panorama photo below, as you can clearly see blue ELECTRA in a sea of white boats in the marina, which is pretty extensive. This photograph indicates a rather large modern town, which it is in part, but still retains a cosy and characterful centre.
Sunday 14th August 2011
Jenny and Gordon joining us for lunch on the boat - Jenny's birthday - so I think a quick trip to the market, Boulangerie and Charcuterie to stock up, and perhaps a drop of fizzy ohbejoyful and maybe some of those deliciously sticky fruit tartelettes would be appropriate too. Yummy, I am glad Jenny chose to spend her birthday with us!
It was a lovely day, all we did was eat, drink and chat, and it couldn't have been better. Gordon brought the balloons and candles, lots of ice and more ohbejoyful, we attempted "Happy Birthday to you" en français and the neighbours quite possibly felt we were barking mad.
Back to reality, the weather (at least the wind) will not be in our favour tomorrow. Heading directly into a westerly wind is no fun and makes the journey very plodding, so we will stay in Bandol for an extra day. A good place to be delayed awhile.
Just outside the entrance to the Marina is the rather Tolkeinesque sounding Île de Bendor, home of Paul Ricard (he of the eponymous aniseed apéritif) a son of the Camargue and would-be artist. In 1932 his father, a wine trader, told his son to go and get a proper job - which happened to coincide with the French Government lifting the nigh-on twenty year ban on absinthe and it became once again legal to produce aniseed flavoured alcoholic beverages in France. Young Ricard created a blend of herbs, anise and alcohol, inventing his famous pastis drink, and the rest is history. Much better than that, he rather brightly realised that fennel grown in the Camargue produces just as good an aniseed flavour for pastis as the expensively imported Star Anise - a much needed new industry was born in the Camargue and a great fortune was made for the Ricard family. Île de Bendor is still a Ricard family home, but is also open to the public, it has a little quay and anchorage, along with a museum and art gallery.
Our departure from Bandol was delayed, mostly by the weather, but partly I think we were just enjoying ourselves - so a Monday departure became a Wednesday departure.
We set sail, well we set off motoring, into a flat calm sea, sunshine, and light wind right behind us - no point in hoisting any sail. That is more or less how it remained throughout the journey until we turned north round the Cap Croisette, towards Marseille and Pointe Rouge, our destination. By that time the wind had freshened to 14 kts but it was short lived and too late to bother with any sail for the last half an hour into the marina.
Very few boats going westward, so perhaps the big end-of-holiday rush was last weekend, but I guess there may be another mass exodus at the end of August. We were sailing through familiar territory, on a reciprocal course to our outward journey in June. Just beyond La Ciotat and the 'Bec de l'Aigle' rock the red cliffs give way to limestone and the deep Calanques, the landscape changes yet again. It was good to see familiar landmarks and confirms our feelings about staying in this area - we like it.
Pointe Rouge is a suburb of Marseille and the marina is largely dedicated to small craft, including racks of motorboats on the quay which we had last seen at Port Leucate in 2009. There are only about 200 masts in a marina of more than 1500 boats. Not an attractive place, just functional.
We tied up at the fuel pontoon, which was tricky as the nice, smooth concrete quay ended in a jumble of sharp rocks more or less where our bow was! Having sorted out the fuel, we secured a berth although it was clear that the Capitainerie are entirely unused to visitors in this marina and really didn't welcome them. Mooring was tricky - the crew made a hash of lasooing the horn cleats on the pontoon. No help was forthcoming from the Capitainerie, or anyone else, until Mrs.D shouted sternly to a vacant-looking bystander, and instructed him to take the bow ropes, which he meekly did. Eventually we sorted out which were our stern-lines and settled down to a decent lunch on a very, very hot day.
Only the second time we have not bothered with a photograph of our destination, nothing photogenic about it, just another marina with rather a grim beach next to it. Rosie enjoyed chasing the seagulls on the beach in the early hours, so one of us was happy.
Onward, westward, tomorrow to Port Napoleon.
Thursday 18th August 2011 - Pointe-Rouge to Port Napoleon
We made a dignified exit from Pointe Rouge at around 8 o'clock, the sea was flat calm and what wind there was, was almost on our tail. We hoisted the Main, more out of sentimentality on our last voyage of the season than in any hope of actually sailing. After about an hour all sentiment was exhausted by the tiresome clanking of a flapping sail and boom, so we dropped the Main and motored on.
The sea became increasingly choppy but not uncomfortably so; as we rounded Cap Couronne and along the commercial coastline of the Golfe de Fos there was a clutter of tankers and container vessels at anchor and going to and fro at 20 knots.
Then suddenly we were turning into the tranquil, low, flat wetlands of the Rhone delta for Port Napoleon and seeing the familiar view - fishermen standing waist-deep in the shallows just yards away either side of the narrow channel, mussel-farms, little huntsmen's and fishermens's shacks on the few outcrops of rock, flamingoes and seabirds of every variety, a forest of masts in the marina and the swallows are still swooping through the rigging.
Willing hands took our ropes as we arrived back where we had started.
En route we lost: four fender covers, our fear of Med-mooring, a shackle key, one pair of spectacles and a bit of weight.
We gained: shedloads of experience, confidence, and a much greater understanding of ourselves and the boat, an old age Pension, a suntan and a scrumptious handbag.
